Look what we have here...

Remember these poor old things

That's right they are the made to measure tassel loafers that I loved that much I decided to hurt them. Well they always say you hurt the ones you love and that was more than true for this pair of shoes. I took it upon myself to repair the fractious relationship between us both and shipped them off to where they came from Gieves and Hawkes on Savile Row, to see if some counselling would help them. In the form of Dr Justin FitzPatrick, he isn't a real doctor I don't think, the shoes met a shoulder to cry on and take solace from the mean and brutal treatment they had received. The results?

As you can see they look a lot better for a bit of tender loving care and now I am as happy as larry because I practically have a new pair of shoes. Dr Justin will take on any shoes from any brand but he works from his station in Number 1 Savile Row. The services on offer are either the Gieves special shine for £10 or the Gieves milatry shine for £20 which makes your dancers look like they are made from glass (glass I tell you). I went with the special shine as these are loafers and are meant to be informal. With the previous finish being a camel colour and the shoes now looking more like a chestnut shade, there are some patches of mottled effect but to me this gives the shoes a more antique feel. When I went in there a chap had just given him 6 pairs of John Lobb shoes to shine up to a military spec so he has his work cut out.
I am now looking forward to wearing these for the first time. If I only had a special occasion to wear them too? Whats that love we need some milk......

All white now.

As I have mentioned in a previous post blazer buttons are great way to put a different spin an outfit. In Wednesdays musing I mentioned I was wearing a navy blue blazer with white mother of pearl buttons and didn't put a picture up. Forgive me as I posted that from sitting on the edge of the bed whilst the better half was walking around trying to find something to wear and I was summoned to iron some clothes for her. After working on The Row my ironing skills are a gift but also a burden sometimes. Anyway here is a close up shot of the point I am trying to make.

The jacket is a navy textured wool from the old Gieves by Gieves and Hawkes range and must be 4 years old now. Originally part of a suit but I wrecked the trousers, naturally, so changed the buttons to these so I had something a little more casual in the jacketing department. The white shine coming through is the lining from underneath as the cloth is so loosely woven it shows through on photos. Trust me it doesn't show through in real life (I know this is real life but you get what I mean).
But look at these....

Hotfooting along Savile Row yesterday afternoon I spotted these two rather eye catching jackets. Not quite so sure about the ties on display here but the jackets are lovely and as we can see white buttons. Note how the white in the shirt links in nicely with the white buttons, but this also could be done with a white pocket square or a white collar and cuff shirt.
I think that Willem Alexander, Prince of Orange could have maybe got away with the one on the right for the royal wedding, that teamed with an electric blue trouser?
Lastly but by no means least here is one of my all time favourite brands, Hackett. I had the misfortune of having to fly from Stansted airport last month and when I got through security and the horror of the departure lounge was thrust upon me, it was with great relief that I noticed Hackett had opened a mini shop there. My forty five minute wait flew by as ohhhhed and ahhhed over the fantastic collection that was in there. I stumbled upon this natty piece

Patch pockets, three button cuff and a notch lapel which all work well and as we can see white buttons. On this shot they have tied in the white button with the white stripe in the shirt and set it all off with the slightly off white pocket square. I love this jacket and might have to go and buy it or do I need another blazer? Yes of course I need another blazer, because a man  can never have to many.
Until next time, toodle pip.

My mate

Owns this rather cool tailoring company. Since striking out on his own, about a year ago now, he has come such a long way in a rather small space of time. We both cut our teeth together on Savile Row Mr Newell was there sometime before I came along but we instantly had a connection and knew that we had our own ambitions to go elsewhere and make our own mark on the tailoring world.
The latest in a long line of Soho tailoring houses that offer that little something different from The Row, Newell Bespoke is a company that makes sure the customer is always right working with them to get the perfect fit, cut and combination of cloth and lining. Have a look at just some of the pieces Newell has managed to conjure up.

Sky linen blazer with mother of pearl buttons

Newell Bespoke is one company that delivers what it promises (Mr Newell once flew to Italy and back in one day to collect a customers suit as he needed the next day, now that is service), which at the end of the day, is what its all about. Mr Newell has his own personal style, something that is quite different to mine but one thing you cannot say about him is he is badly dressed. The man is as sharp as a dart and in my opinion the best dressed Soho dandy.

Soho gangster chic this one.

So gentleman of London (or anywhere else for that matter) next time you are after a suit that speaks for you make yourself an appointment with my mate Mr Newell.

You'll regret it.

And I already am. My Gieves and Hawkes made to measure tassel loafers are dying, literally, on my feet. I ordered these beauties for the beginning of last summer and to be honest I didn't really get in to them back then but already this spring they have become invaluable which is what I am regretting.
I am a man who isn't afraid to say I like my loafers worn without socks. Yes there you are I have said it and I think all loafers (in the warmer months) should be worn without socks. Now I know the purists of you out there will be gasping with the horror of the sweat that will be pouring into my lovely leather loafs which is no good for them at all but I do use shoes trees (when I remember to put them in and don't just pull my shoes off getting into bed after a few sherbets) and this improves the condition of the whole shoe but look...

Tragedy, cut down in their prime.

they are looking a sorry sight already, no?  I am going to try and breathe new life into these by getting the lovely young chap who does the shoe shining in Number 1 Savile Row (I have forgotten the fella's name) to give them a thorough going over and sorting out. Now here is the clever bit. As you can see these shoes are camel colour I however would now prefer them to look a rich tan so I am going to get our shoe shine supremo to see if he can take the colour down a few notches and give me back, fingers crossed, a new pair of shoes. Well sort of.
I will, of course, get the results of this ground breaking experiment up on here for all to see.
Wish me luck.

Star spangled suit.

I had the pleasure having the majority of the day to myself yesterday (apart from a meeting here and there) and I managed to find myself in that Middle Eastern delight that is Knightsbridge. I gasped at One Hyde Park (tacky, very tacky if you ask me), marvelled at Harrods estate agents and then swooned over the American doing it just as good as any Englishman, Mr T. Ford of course. 

Now I am a purist. Born and raised on Savile Row my morals are rooted in the best of British but I still have to hand it to him he does The Row as good, if not better, than anyone.

Take the suit above for example (I know its been pinned to hell but no one is perfect are they?) the shape of the lapel, the pitch of the sleeve and, my personal favourite, depth of the pocket flaps. I haven't even started on the pattern of the cloth clashing with the tie but it all looks so well put together. Savile Row would frown upon the peak lapel with the two buttons I guess but I rather like it.

The lay out of the concession in Harrods is something like a gentlemen's club and you somehow end up staying longer than you expected as the thick carpet under your feet makes you slow right down and you can almost feel the luxury flowing through the soles of your shoes. Although the area was understaffed I guess having too many Fordite's around would give it an overcrowded feeling and I wouldn't of had time to sneak these pictures in.

£149 for a tie is a bit steep mind you in anyones money and the suits coming in at £2,550 are not that far off going down to Savile Row and getting your own pattern cut for a nice whistle made around you.
It is all about buying into the brand and lifestyle of course and spending £1200 on a shawl collar cardigan might seem steep (it is worth it when you see it believe me).
It pains me to say being as English as Oak but no one does it better than ol' Tom.

Are you being served???

 At the weekend a good friend of mine asked me if I would lend a hand this week when he went to find a wedding suit and I jumped at the chance to help my chum out. He had seen a suit online from a powerhouse of English tailoring and wanted my eagle eye view on it. So we rocked up to the flagship store (I am not going to say who it is as this review is bad) and entered its lovely fine building on Regent's street. We made our way to the sale suit section and had a look. A few suit's took his eye as the online one was not there and after being in the store for about a good quarter of an hour we were finally approached. Now I am not a snob in fact I would say I am the opposite but the appearance of the sales women who came over was rather shocking (think Dorothy Perkins circa 1999 and you get the picture) she straight away told us that we would struggle to find anything now the sale was nearly over which is exactly what my pal wanted to hear with his wedding fast approaching.
I ended up slipping the jacket on him and showing him where it could be tweaked to get the best fit whilst the salesperson slouched on the counter looking bored and uninterested. What has happened to the service in these "high end" stores? The store was deathly quite and they could of taken full advantage of our situation (in need of a full outfit for a wedding) but just didn't have the staff our the know how to do so. Mr Humphrey would have been very disappointed!

We left the store deflated to say the least only then to find out it was pouring down outside and not a brolly between us. We headed for the only street in London that could live up to my high expectations: Savile Row. Now me and my pal had a budget of about a bag of sand for the full outfit which was going to be a bit of a stretch but I had faith in the sartorial Lord (in my head it's Tommy Nutter and Beau Brummell sat together having a bit of a love off. Not that Beau paid for anything of course.)
Wandering along my favourite place on earth nothing really took our eye until we hit upon Gary Anderson. I haven't really spent much time in Gary Anderson but as soon as we stepped through the door I got that nice feeling of "every things going to be alright now".

The chap in there came over  straight away asked us the usual questions and before we knew it my buddy was trying on a navy two piece, shirt and tie to match. The suit was just a little to dark in my opinion so we opted for a petrol blue number next and we were thrilled. Down from £999 to £700 and it fitted the bill perfectly with a sky blue shirt and navy knitted tie he looked more than the part . The nice chappie (who's name I did not get but I will trust me) was more than delight to be served by and a good time was had by all. Bravo indeed.